Hurricanes, Climate Change, and Central America

April 18th, 2006 by David

   Since arriving in Central America, I have asked nearly every person I have stayed with about how hurricanes have affected their lives.

   In Belize, the majority of the population lives in coastal settlements that are barely above sea level. The town where I learned to SCUBA dive, Placencia, was almost completely destroyed by Hurricane Iris in 1991. People with insurance or in the tourism industry have rebuilt. Others sold their land and moved. Down the road from Placencia is Sand Bite, a small town that does not receive tourism dollars. This town has not fully rebuilt from the storm.

   Hurricanes are likely to be stronger on a warmer earth. A recent study (here is a description) showed how an increase in the power of Atlantic hurricanes over the past 20 years is correlated with warmer ocean water in the Atlantic. This makes intuitive sense – hurricanes get their energy from warm ocean water, and warmer ocean water should mean more powerful hurricanes. More powerful hurricanes are also predicted by climate models. Furthermore, much of the damage done by hurricanes is not just by their winds, but by the rain that accompanies the storms. A warmer atmosphere can hold more water, and thus will likely provide heavier rains (read more on rains here).

   In 1998, a huge category 5 hurricane, Hurricane Mitch, tore through the Caribbean and then parked itself over Central America, affecting almost every country. Ten thousand people died, and over 100,000 were left homeless.

   The storm hit Honduras the hardest. It destroyed some coastal communities and then dropped amazing amounts of rain. A security guard at the San Pedro Sula airport described water in his house up to his armpits. A family who I stayed with in the countryside told me that they lost all of their crops. I asked what they did that year, and they replied that they were hungry that year. In Tegucigalpa, the flooding reached the third floor of some buildings (such as the building on the left). According to my city guide Carleton, many of the houses on the hill sides washed away. He showed me a large section of bare earth (shown on the right) where there used to be houses.

   The destruction continued in the rest of Central America. In San Miguel, El Salvador, one man described a landslide that destroyed many homes. In Nicaragua, the family that I swam with on Good Friday invited me back to their house. Their house had been destroyed by Mitch, and rebuilt a year later by help from the government (photo left). Also in Nicaragua, I spent one night at the house of Cristina, who is shown on the right. Cristina explained that although no one in her community died, they lost all of their animals. “We ate a lot of rice and beans.”

   Mitch was so strong that its name has been retired – whereas most names for storms are reused after a few years, meteorologists will never again use the name Mitch. If current research is correct, though, we will see more storms like Mitch. And, the people who will suffer the most will be the people who I have met here in Central America – people who live in poorly constructed houses, who live on vulnerable slopes, or who rely on the food they grow to live.

   Based on these stories, it seems that the human toll of Hurricane Mitch was many times worse than any storm in the U.S. Again, this is because of how people live here — they have fewer resources to survive and recover from a storm. Yet, growing up in the U.S., for a long time I thought that hurricanes damaged only Florida and nearby states because that is what I heard about in the media. Somehow we need to expand our view to other countries, especially as our actions — emissions of greenhouse gasses — will make storms worse internationally.

Through Honduras to Nicaragua

April 16th, 2006 by David

   Leaving El Salvador, I climbed into the mountains of Honduras, continuing my winding route through Central America (see the map of my route).

   Returning to Honduras, I spent my first night camped outside of a family’s house in the countryside. Like the last Honduran family I stayed with, they had no electricity, although they did have many candles and they ran a small store selling refreshments. They invited me into their home, let me cook my dinner on their stove, and showed me pictures of past family events.

   Earlier that day, I drank some water I should not have. That night, I emerged from my tent many times, and one time left a pile of vomit in the lawn near the outhouse. This is not the way to be a good guest. Although a dog and the rain immediately cleaned up my mess, the family had heard me, because, as they told me in the morning, they could not sleep because of mosquitoes at night. They said they could not afford a mosquito net. The mother gave me some medicine and wished me well; I felt bad that I had little to give in return, but I shared some of my food and offered to mail them a copy of a picture I took of them.

   After spending a day recovering in a hotel in the city of La Paz, I biked into Tegucigalpa, Honduras’ capital city. The city sits at about 3,000 feet above sea level in the middle of a large valley surrounded by pine forests. Here I stayed with Marta and Carleton, the mother and step-father of a friend of mine from college. Carleton runs a school, but it was the week before Easter, and all of Latin America is on vacation (I did, however, get an interview on television). Nonetheless, Carleton gave me a tour of the city and told me about how he once ran for mayor of Tegucigalpa. He ran on an anti-corruption platform, but then lost the race to a man who, as was later learned, received illegal funding from the government.

   I continued into Nicaragua, which did not change dramatically from Honduras. Nicaragua is one of the poorer countries in Latin America (see comparison). Like El Salvador, Nicaragua had a long civil war during the 1980s. However, in Nicaragua, it was the government that was socialist instead of the guerillas attempting to overthrow it. As such, the U.S. massively supported the guerrillas, and also enacted a trade embargo that strangled the country (the people fighting the government were known as ‘contras,’ and you may know of this from the ‘Iran-contra’ affair).

   Now the country is peaceful, and, like El Salvador, I felt relatively safe biking. As it was the week before Easter, everyone was on vacation, and most people were at the beach or the local swimming hole. On Good Friday, I passed a family that demanded I join them at the local pool. Despite the strange murky color of the pool water, I enjoyed playing tag and diving into the crowded pool. If you have a high-speed connection, you should look at the video on the right.

   Arriving in Managua, Nicaragua’s capital, I stopped at the airport to pick up my father, who will be biking with me through Nicaragua and Costa Rica. In an effort to embarrass his son, pops showed up at the airport with the most ridiculous looking bicycle he could possibly find – a folding bike that can fit within a suitcase. With over half a dozen security guards watching us, we quickly assembled his bike, attached the suitcase as a trailer, and biked away from the airport.

Should I bike Colombia?

April 15th, 2006 by David

   As I get closer, I am considering biking Colombia. I have received completely contradictory advice as to whether or not I would be safe biking the country, and I am trying to collect as much information as I can. If you have any advice, information, or contacts, let me know or leave a comment!

A Ride for the Climate in the Media

April 15th, 2006 by David

   If you pick up the most recent issue of Bicycling Magazine (the May issue), you will see a nice two page spread on rideforclimate (photo left). Other recent appearances include an interview on Honduran national television (‘Buenas Días Honduras’) and an upcomming article in the El Salvador national newspaper (El Diario del Hoy, on the 21st of this month). The Belize national television also covered rideforclimate. And, a month and a half ago, Univision television tracked me down (as well as my friends Gregg and Brooks), and recorded us biking around Chiapas, Mexico. (I learned that this actually made it to television when a man here in Managua stopped me and told me that he saw me on Univision.)
   While visiting schools is a more direct way to communicate, it is also satisfying that I am able to use this trip to get my message out to a larger audience.

A week across El Salvador

April 7th, 2006 by David

   Crossing the border from Honduras, I could immediately tell El Salvador is far less poor than Honduras (see comparison). I could buy any food that I wanted at the store (muffins and chocolate milk, in this case), and the pavement on the roads was well maintained.

   I spent two days in the small town of Guarjila, were I learned of the civil war. Between 1980 and 1992, the El Salvador government fought a violent war against a large part of the population that demanded more rights, particularly the right to own land. The U.S. government, fearing a ‘socialist takeover,’ spent billions of dollars supporting the El Salvadorian government, whose war tactics included the massacre of entire mountain villages. At least 75,000 people died. You can read more here.

   The town of Guarjila was in the resistance during the war, and I heard a woman talk about her experience as a young medical assistant. She talked about performing amputations at the age of 16, as well as losing many of her family members. Her talk was for a group of visiting U.S. high school students, and it was translated to English as she spoke (photo left). Delmy, the woman, who had only finished 4th grade before the war began, returned to school at the war’s end and is now a doctor working in Guarjila.

   Since the war, the El Salvadorian economy has grown quickly, strangely fuelled by large amounts of money sent back from El Salvadorians working abroad, mostly in the U.S. Billboards along the road advertised the best way to send your ‘remesa’ money back to the country. In San Salvador, the capital, I biked to the Multiplaza, a lavish mall serving the country’s wealthy. To be sure, most people in El Salvador are still poor, and somehow, the mall made me feel very uncomfortable.

   I talked at two schools in El Salvador. I talked to the environmental club at the American School, a private school in San Salvador, and also at Centro Escolar Caserio, a public school in the mountains.

   I left the country through the mountain town of Perquin, which saw some of the heaviest fighting of the war. I visited the civil war museum, which was in town, and saw large craters that were left from where 500 lb bombs had been dropped. My guide, who fought in the war, described what it was like when the bomb fell and everything within 150 meters was blown away.

   A special thanks to John Guiliano, the students of Brebeuf, and the Tamarindos for making me welcome in the country of El Salvador. I spent two and a half days with this group in Guarjila (where the video of Demly was taken), and greatly enjoyed myself. And yes, here are the obligatory pictures of firemen – thanks to the firemen of Chalantenango and San Francisco Gotera for letting me stay with them.

S