Archive for the ‘Belize’ Category

Coral Reefs and Climate Change

Tuesday, March 21st, 2006

   As I had promised my friend Dennis, we arrived in the small tourist town of Placencia and set up our tents on the beach, planning to stay for a few days. We had one goal while in town: to see the coral reefs off Belize’s shore.

   Coral reef ecosystems are some of the most diverse and interesting ecosystems in the world. Coral reefs consist of organisms that build hard calcium carbonate shells, known as ‘reefs’. These organisms house and protect algae, which form the basis of the coral reef ecosystem. The structures built by the corals also provide shelter for many different types of marine life, and coral reef ecosystems are extremely diverse. Over time, as the skeletons of reefs accumulate, the coral builds large underwater structures, making even islands (coral atolls) or ‘barrier reefs’ – long structures parallel to the shore. The largest of these barrier reefs is in Australia (the ‘Great Barrier Reef’), and the second largest is off the coast of Belize.

   To see the reef close up, I took a SCUBA class. It felt strange paying as much for three days of SCUBA instruction as I paid for the entire month of February, but it was more than worth it, especially considering that these reefs may not survive this century. Dennis, who was already certified to SCUBA, joined me for my training dives, and we took a boat to the barrier reef with other vacationing Americans.

   I was amazed by the amount of life in Belize’s reef. Having purchased an underwater case for my camera, I used all my memory cards almost immediately. At times I thought I was in an aquarium — huge schools of fish swam around us, eels weaved through the reef, lobsters hid in the reef, and long sponges rose above the ocean floor. (I have a number of high resolution movies that are too big to post on this site — you’ll have to wait till I return!)

   These reefs are in trouble. Over 10% of reefs worldwide have already been destroyed, largely through changes in land use near the shore, which cause chemicals and excess nutrients to runoff into the ocean. This runoff can kill the delicate reefs. The reefs are also in danger from higher temperatures. When temperatures rise above a certain level, the algae in the reefs die, a phenomenon known as coral bleaching. In 1998, one of the hottest years on record, 16% of the world’s reefs were damaged by hotter temperatures. Some of these reefs survived, while others have not recovered. Higher temperatures will make coral bleaching more common, killing many reefs.

   Reefs are also threatened by changing ocean chemistry. Much of the carbon dioxide that we add to the atmosphere is actually absorbed by the oceans. Carbon dioxide reacts with water to make carbonic acid, and, since the start of industrial times, the oceans have become more acidic by 0.1 pH. According to a professor who studies ocean chemistry in my former department at the Carnegie Institute of Washington (he also helped put together this lengthy report), the oceans may become too acidic for coral reefs to make their calcium carbonate shells. ‘Higher temperatures may not be the real problem,’ he told me before I left, ‘the reefs may simply dissolve.’

   Coral reefs, such as the ones I swam by off the shore of Belize, are in great danger. Some reefs may survive global warming, but, without action, the majority of reef ecosystems around the world will likely collapse. These reefs are the most biologically diverse parts of the ocean, and without them, we will lose untold numbers of underwater species. These extinctions would be a tragedy not only in their own right, but also for fishermen, the tourism industry, and those of us who enjoy visiting these underwater jungles.

Guatemala to Placencia Belize – 6 days, 274 miles

Friday, March 17th, 2006

   After a night in a small Guatemalan village (where I ran into a high school friend), I crossed into Belize. My friend Dennis Murphree was flying into the Belize City airport that afternoon, and I planned to bike and meet him. I asked the customs agent how many kilometers it was to Belize City. The customs agent, a man of African descent, replied in English ‘I don’t know how many kilometers it is, but I do know it is 75 miles.’

   Belize is more of a Caribbean nation than a Central American nation. It was a British colony until 1981, when it won its independence, and English is the official language. A large portion of the country is of African descent and speaks ‘Creol English.’ It is a diverse country, with immigrants from the surrounding Hispanic countries as well as indigenous Mayan communities. It is also a tiny country. It is the size of Massachusetts but with fewer than 250,000 people (which means convenience stores are far and few between when biking). I learned these basic facts about Belize from a cyclist who I met on the road (movie on the right). I also learned that cycling is a popular sport here, and I was also impressed with the number of bike racks in Belize City.

   I met Dennis, a good friend from college, at the Belize City airport. We assembled his bike and rode into Belize City for the night. Dennis, who has never biked more than 20 miles in a day, is new to bike touring. When he was deciding to join me, I promised we would bike short distances and spend lots of time on the beach. Plans change, though, and when he arrived, I told him we were biking 50 miles inland. He wasn’t very excited.

   Dennis and I biked one day to the capital of Belize, Belmopan, a town of 10,000 people, where we met with an organization helping Caribbean nations adapt to climate change. The following day I gave a presentation at Galen University, a university that attempts to incorporate sustainable development into all of its classes. Biking 10 miles down the road, we then spent the night at Jaguar Creek, an ‘environmental peace’ center.

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   Turning back towards the coast, Dennis and I biked along the base of the Maya mountains. Fortunately, the road never crossed over the mountains, avoiding any serious hills. Dennis reported, much to my relief, that he actually enjoyed bicycling and was not angry for the false advertising. It is, after all, a bicycle tour.

   Stopping to camp for the night, we asked a retired American who moved to Belize if we could camp on his lawn. ‘Sure, just one problem. I own a jaguar. I will try to put him inside.’ Soon, a half-grown 11-month-old jaguar ‘kitten’ was diving into our stuff, and ran off with Dennis’ biking glove. The jaguar then leapt onto Dennis leg. His owner tried to put the jaguar inside, but the kitten scratched the man and ran off, this time with Dennis’ bike helmet. Recovering the helmet, Dennis and I decided it might be better to continue, and we camped on a lawn in Maya Center, a small town where the locals speak the language Maya Mopan.

   The following day, we biked a short distance to Placencia, the beach town that I had promised Dennis. From here we would visit the coral reefs of Belize — reefs that are in great danger from climate change and the reason that I decided to visit Belize.